That is inconsistent with the EGR Vacuum Regulator circuit commandedĮxhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System Monitor-Differential Pressure Feedback EGR The monitor looks for an EGR Vacuum Regulator circuit voltage
The EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid is continuously tested for opens and The DTCs associated with this test are DTCs P1400 and P1401. The monitor looks for theĭifferential Pressure Feedback EGR circuit voltage to exceed the maximum The Differential Pressure Feedback EGR sensor and circuit areĬontinuously tested for opens and shorts. Of the EGR System Monitor tests are also performed during on demand Once activated, the EGR System Monitor will perform each of the testsĭescribed below during the engine modes and conditions indicated. IAT, TP and CKP sensors is required to activate the EGR System Monitor. The monitor is activated during EGR system operation andĪfter certain base engine conditions are satisfied. Strategy designed to test the integrity and flow characteristics of theĮGR system. The Differential Pressure Feedback EGR System Monitor is an on-board
#FUEL SYSTEM MONITOR INCOMPLETE CODE#
Good luck people and hope this helps.P 1401 is a code for differential pressure feedback egr circuit high input there is a small square sensor on the engine with a vacuum line here is some info Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System Monitor” Differential Pressure Feedback EGR
This fortunately did not mess up the cycle. at one point on the highway I tried to turn on cruise control and accidentally hit my turn signal. Passed hours later when I took it to the shop. One I got below 20mph, I went back to normal driving and went home. I held 55 again for 6 minutes and then did the decelerate to 20 mph again without breaking. as soon as the car went below 20 mph, I then accelerated back up to 55mph without exceeding 3,000rpm. When the car hits 20mph on the way down, you feel a gear shift that I think is what the system is looking for. At 4 minute mark, turned on emergency lights and let off gas without touching break all the way past 20mph. when I got to the highway, I accelerated somewhat slowly up to 55 and held at 55 for 4 minutes (longer than 3 but had cars behind me so didn't feel safe to decelerate). I did have to break a few times, but at no point did I exceed 40mph or 3,000rpm. I then put the car in drive and made my way to the highway, which took about 3 minutes. at the 2.5 minute mark, I turned off the Ac, radio, and defroster and backed out of my garage. I have an automatic 2010 BMW 328i and failed smog twice prior to doing this: -Cold started my car at about 6 am and turned AC, Defroster, and radio on. I used these instructions with some variations this morning and passed my smog check hours later, so I thought I'd come back and give my experience in case it helps anyone else. If you are doing this in the winter, wear extra layers - you cannot turn on the AC
The Driving Cycle performs a diagnostic test on all the systems that the computer monitors. You will need to do a Driving Cycle if you have replaced the battery, disconnected the battery, or cleared the codes after a repair.
OBD-II Driving Cycle: If you have a 1996-up BMW, you have the OBD-II diagnostic system that constantly monitors the sensors and solenoids on the engine. Both of these methods are extremely time consuming but there is another way to get the OBC ready to pass the smog check. You could either drive a whole 200 miles hopefully the OBC is ready or do as BMW dealership had suggested to drive 30 miles, park the car in idle for 30 minutes, and repeat this process for at least 3-4 times. This process can be either cost consuming or time consuming. In order for your car to pass the smog check, you need to do a drive cycle to get the OBC ready. This makes the car not ready for a smog check. Why do I need to do a drive cycle? If you have recently changed the battery on your BMW or done a major repair for the engine or emission system, the on board computer has mostly been reset.
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